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No chemicals does not mean grabbing the plunger, that may work. But if your reading this I’m betting it didn’t.

Why not use drain cleaners instead?

Because:

• This is much cheaper
• Manually cleaning the drain is safer
• Physically removing the clog is very effective
• This is the perfect green alternative to harsh chemical drain cleaners

A cheap, easy, safe and green way to fix a clogged or slow drain. Tell me who does not like that?  Thanks to Katmckee over at Instructables for this great tutorial on drain cleaning.

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Pumping a Septic Tank

What Is a Septic System?

There are a number of different septic systems, each with its own design. The conventional system is the one most commonly used  (Figure 1). It consists of three main parts: the septic tank, the drainfield, and the soil beneath the drainfield.

The septic tank is a watertight concrete box about 9 feet long and 5 feet tall. It is buried in the ground just outside the home. The tank is usually precast from reinforced concrete and can be purchased from concrete manufacturers. While typically designed with a 1,000-gallon liquid capacity, the size of the tank is legally determined by the number of bedrooms in the home. The tank temporarily holds household wastes and allows a small amount of pretreatment to take place (Figure 2).

The tank is connected to the drainfield by a buried pipe. A typical drainfield consists of two to five trenches excavated into the subsoil. In many systems, a distribution box or a flow divider helps move wastewater to each trench. In most conventional septic systems, the trenches are 3 feet wide, 2 to 3 feet deep, and 9 feet apart. In each trench, a 1-foot thick layer of washed gravel or stone is placed around a 4-inch-diameter perforated distribution pipe. After the trenches are covered with soil, the area must be landscaped to keep surface waters from ponding over the drainfield.

The drainfield has also been called the nitrification field or the soil absorption field. The sole purpose of the drainfield is to deliver wastewater to the soil. The soil purifies the wastewater by removing the germs and chemicals before they reach the groundwater or any adjacent surface waters such as rivers, lakes, and estuaries.

Fig.1 Conventional Septic System

Fig.2 Septic Tank

What Takes Place in the Tank?

All of the wastewaters from the home should flow into the septic tank. Even waters from the shower, bathtub, and washing machine can contain disease-causing germs or environmental pollutants. As wastewater flows into the tank, the heavier solid materials settle to the bottom (forming a sludge layer), the lighter greases and fats float to the top (forming a scum layer), and the liquid (sewage effluent) flows out of the tank. An outlet baffle (or a sanitary tee at the outlet end) prevents solids from flowing out with the liquids. The tank’s primary purpose is to retain the solids while releasing sewage effluent to the drainfield.

What Happens in the Drainfileld and the Soil?

The real treatment of the wastewater occurs in the soil beneath the drainfield. Sewage effluent flows out of the tank as a cloudy liquid that still contains many disease-causing germs and environmental pollutants. Effluent flows into the perforated pipe in the trenches, passes through the holes in the pipe, and then trickles down through the gravel to the soil. As effluent enters and flows through the soil, many of the bacteria that can cause diseases are filtered out. Some of the smaller germs, such as viruses, are absorbed by the soil until they are destroyed. The soil can also retain certain chemicals, including phosphorus and some forms of nitrogen.

What Maintenance Is Needed?

Both the septic tank and the drainfield must be properly maintained. With conscientious maintenance, the system should work correctly for many years. Such maintenance begins with water use and waste disposal habits. Since your family will determine which materials enter the system, you should establish rules for proper use and maintenance.

The suggestions outlined below will save you anguish and money when applied to most conventional systems. More sophisticated systems require additional maintenance, possibly at much greater cost. Also, recent rule changes now require owners of some alternative septic systems and community septic systems to hire a certified operator to maintain their systems. For more information about these requirements, contact your local health department.

Tips for Maintaining Your Septic System

• Do not put too much water into the septic system; typical water use is about 50 gallons per day for each person in the family.
• Do not add materials (chemicals, sanitary napkins, applicators, and so on) other than domestic wastewater.
• Restrict the use of your garbage disposal.
• Do not pour grease or cooking oils down the sink drain.
• Make a diagram showing the location of your tank drainfield and repair area.
• Install a watertight concrete riser over the septic tank to simplify access.
• Periodically have the solids pumped out of the septic tank.
• Maintain adequate vegetative cover over the drainfield.
• Keep surface waters away from the tank and drainfield.
• Keep automobiles and heavy equipment off the system.
• Do not plan any building additions, pools, driveways, or other construction work near the septic system or the repair area.

Will I Need to Pump the Tank?

After a few years, the solids that accumulate in the septic tank should be pumped out and disposed of at an approved location. If not removed, these solids will eventually overflow, accumulate in the drainfield, and clog the pores (openings) in the soil.

This blockage severely damages the drainfield. While some clogging of soil pores slowly occurs even in a properly functioning system, excess solids from a poorly maintained tank can completely close all soil pores so that no wastewater can flow into the soil. The sewage effluent will then either back up into the house or flow across the ground surface over the drainfield. If this happens, you may need to construct a new drainfield on a different part of your lot. Pumping the septic tank after the soil drainfield has become completely clogged will not rejuvenate the system. It will provide only a few days reprieve until the tank fills up again.

How Will I Know When to Pump the Tank?

The frequency with which you will need to pump depends on three variables: the size of your tank, the volume of your wastewater, and the solids content of your wastewater. If you are unsure about when to have the tank pumped, observe the yearly rate of solids accumulation. The tank should be pumped if the sludge layer has built up to within 25 to 33 percent of the liquid capacity of the tank. Therefore, a typical 1,000 gallon tank with a 4-foot liquid capacity should be pumped when the solids are 1-foot thick in the bottom of the tank. If the tank is not easily accessible, you may wish to inspect and pump it according to the frequency guidelines in Table 1. Your local health department should be able to tell you the size of your tank. When inspecting the tank, check the sanitary tee or the outlet baffle to be sure that it has not broken off and dropped into the tank. Also, be sure to have both compartments of the tank pumped.

Table 1. Estimated Septic Tank Inspection and Pumping Frequency in Years

If the septic system is not used very often (as in an infrequently used vacation home with a correctly sized tank), it will probably not need to be pumped as frequently as indicated in the table. If you use a garbage disposal, the tank may need to be pumped more frequently. After a few inspections, you should be able to adjust the schedule according to the rate at which solids accumulate.

What Should Not Be Put into the Septic System?

Make sure you are aware of the types and amounts of extra waste materials that are poured down the drain. Limiting the use of your garbage disposal will minimize the flow of excess solids to your tank. Garbage disposals usually double the amount of solids added to the tank.

Do not pour cooking greases, oils, and fats down the drain. Grease hardens in the septic tank and accumulates until it clogs the inlet or outlet. Grease poured down the drain with hot water may flow through the septic tank and clog soil pores completely.

Pesticides, paints, paint thinners, solvents, disinfectants, poisons, and other household chemicals should not be dumped down the drain into a septic system because they may kill soil microorganisms that help purify the sewage. Also, some organic chemicals will flow untreated through the septic tank and the soil, thus contaminating the underlying groundwater.

Are Septic-Tank Cleaners Necessary?

No. These products include biologically based materials (bacteria, enzymes, and yeast), inorganic chemicals (acids and bases), or organic chemicals (including solvents). They do not reduce the need for regular pumping of the septic tank. Some of these products contain organic chemicals and may even damage the drainfield or contaminate the groundwater and nearby wells.

Is Special Care Needed for the Drainfield?

Yes. The drainfield does not have an unlimited capacity. The more water your family uses, the greater the likelihood of problems with the septic system.

Water conservation practices can help reduce the amount of wastewater generated in the home. Periodically check your plumbing for leaky faucets and toilets. Uncorrected leaks can more than double the amount of water you use. Many soils that can absorb the 200 to 250 gallons of sewage usually produced each day by a family of four would become waterlogged if an extra 250 gallons were added. For more information on this subject see North Carolina Agricultural Extension Service publications HE-250, Focus on Residential Water Conservation and HE-213, Water Management Checklist for the Home.

Be sure that foundation drains, roof waters, gutter waters, and surface waters from driveways and other paved areas do not flow over the septic tank or the drainfield. Careful landscaping can help direct excess surface waters away from the system.

What about Alternatives to the Conventional System?

Other types of septic systems are sometimes used on sites where the soil is not suited to a conventional system. Where soils are too wet or too shallow for the conventional system, the drainfield might be placed very close to the ground surface in the upper layers of the soil. In some wet soils, artificial drainage around the septic system lowers the level of the shallow water table. On some clayey soils that have a thick sandy surface, the low-pressure pipe (LPP) system provides an alternative. A wrapped pipe 8 to 10 inches in diameter is sometimes used in gravelless, hand-dug trenches on very steep slopes.

On some soils that are not deep enough to provide adequate treatment of the sewage effluent, it may be possible to use an aerobic treatment unit (ATU) to supplement the soil’s treatment capacity.

Summary

The septic system is an efficient, inexpensive, and convenient method for treating and disposing of household wastewater. Because not all soils are suited for conventional systems, a comprehensive soil and site investigation must be performed before you purchase any land.

Septic systems will adequately absorb and purify wastewater if they are properly maintained. A few precautions can save you anguish and money. Reducing water use, avoiding grease, pumping the tank periodically, and properly landscaping the yard to keep surface water away from the tank and drainfield are inexpensive precautions that can help assure your system a long life. The Cooperative Extension Service publication (AG-439-22) Septic System Owner’s Guide summarizes some important day-to-day management and periodic maintenance activities to improve the longevity of your system. When properly located and maintained, your system should provide years of trouble-free, low-cost service.

Reference:Tyler, E. T., R. Laak, E. McCoy, and S. S. Sandhu. 1977. “The Soil as a Treatment System.” in Home Sewage Treatment. ASAE publication 5-77. Excerpts from http://www.soil.ncsu.edu

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“  New Idea For Replacing a Wax Ring”. Follow the link below to read the entire article.

Faucetman886 says:

I read a lot of forums with questions regarding toilet leaks, smells coming from under toilets and how to properly install a new or reinstall and old toilet. In most cases the offending problem is the wax ring under the toilet. For as many questions there are there are an equal number of answers and versions but I ran across one of the best this weekend. It includes a new idea for utilizing 2 wax rings instead of just one. This is not to be confused with the idea that you can use 2 rings to raise the toilet up from a sunken closet flange but the second wax ring is softened and used to seal around the flange and to create a wax to wax seal for the new ring. This process comes from “DUNBAR PLUMBER” the moderator of one of my favorite discussion forums

http://forum.doityourself.com/plumbing-piping-31/

Here is his process for repacing a wax ring and a picture showing the final result, before placing the toilet, that he provides is above

.

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Here are four options you can try before running to the store to buy some nasty poisonous drain cleaner. They are cheap safe alternatives to caustic cleaners or plumbers. In their defense, plumbers are generally are not really very caustic.

Let Us tell you how to do it yourself and once again save you some money in the process.

Option #1

Boiling water can also be used to clear drains that are clogged by soap and hair.

Option#2

Vinegar and baking soda

Pouring baking soda followed by vinegar down a drain can be used to unclog drains. Baking soda is alkaline, and vinegar is acidic. When the two reactants interact they create mostly inactive material, salts and water, and the amount of reactants (vinegar) will determine the output pH of the reaction. This is more effective as a way to evenly coat the pipes in which will most likely be an acidic reaction. This method is more ecologically friendly, but not as effective as using harmful chemicals such as sulfuric acid or a strong alkaline.

Option #3

Pour 1 cup of baking soda down the drain followed by 1 cup of hot vinegar. Try heating the vinegar in the microwave before adding it to the drain. Wait 5 minutes before flushing the drain with 2 quarts of hot water. You can repeat this process a few times if it is necessary. If this is the first time you have cleaned your drain in a long time it may be necessary to repeat the baking soda flush a couple of times.

Option #4

Try pouring 1 Cup of baking soda and 1/2 Cup of salt down the drain. Let this mixture sit in the drain for several hours, overnight is best, before flushing the drain with 2 cups of boiling water.

Use baking soda that has been used in the refrigerator or freezer to help clean the drains and you’ll extend the use of something you otherwise would have just thrown away.

Try putting baking soda down the drain without rinsing when you are going on vacation or even just a weekend trip. It will help reduce odors that may develop while you are gone. Flush the baking soda out of the drain with hot water or hot vinegar followed by hot water when you return.

Benefits of using Baking Soda in your Drains

A Safe green alternative that you can do your self. Using Baking Soda to clean your drains eliminates harsh chemicals that may leave odors and residue in your sinks.

All of the listed combinations are environmentally friendly, which will help concerns about chemical contamination, or even the risk associated with having chemicals in a home with children.

The best way to keep drains clean and clog-free is by taking preventive measures. At least once a month, pour a half cup of baking soda down drains and then flush with cold water. And, at the first sign of slow-draining water, try using a plunger to dislodge debris in the pipe and do so in a timely fashion.

Edit:

Here is a new article at Armchair DIY about fixing a slow draining sink you may find helpful. This method uses no chemicals or cleaners at all. Just a little old fashioned elbow grease and your drain will be good as new. Check out Cleaning a Sink Drain Without Chemicals

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